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Woman's Wear Shows
October 1, 2002
Women's Wear Journal
N O T I CE//////////
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by Pete McKeown
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There are signs that
consumers are becoming more cautious as retail sales trends weakened in
July and August." There is ample evidence including Standard &
Poor's Industry Report to support these assertions.
As retailers begin to feel the pain, you can bet it will be passed on to
suppliers. While the economy gets tighter, so will the accounts payable
departments of retailers. Of course, some of the bigger retailers are
infamous for the terms they impose on their suppliers, even in the best
of times. It's called "squeeze the supplier."
Standard & Poor's, New York, NY, painted a gloomy picture for
specialty retailers the remainder of the 2002. The company's
specialty retail equity analyst, Karen Sack, in a August 29 Industry
Survey on Retailing: Specialty, stated that "specialty retailers --
regardless of any improvement in the overall economy -- will continue to
face pressure on sales and profits as a result of intense competition,
market saturation, and limited pricing flexibility." Ms. Sack's
report suggested that sales trends in the first five months of 2002
mirror "a pattern similar to 2001 where consumers moderated their
spending, but nevertheless spent.
Death hoods bring fashion protest
women's treatment issues in Afghanistan (and
elsewhere), anti-American, pro-Taliban Guillermo Torino and
sadomasochist David Delphin shocked everyone with their politically
explosive, dehumanizing concepts. And, although Friday's eight new
designers displayed more talent than many of their more experienced
contemporaries on previous days, this last day was veiled (literally) in
too much controversy to notice.
Many of the models stumbled as they were unable to see
MADRID, Spain -- Models sporting nooses, execution-style hoods and body-covering bandages brought howls of protest and walkouts at Madrid's most prestigious fashion show.
Carrying rosaries or crucifixes, the models paraded -- and stumbled -- to the sounds of a man's voice saying the "Our Father," followed by a woman panting erotically and iron bars screeching as they opened and closed.
Spectators at the finale of the Pasarela Cibeles fashion show on Friday night booed, whistled and called out to the hooded models to guide them after some tripped.
Some in the crowd likened the hoods to the the burqa head-coverings that women in Afghanistan had to wear when the Muslim fundamentalist Taliban were in power.
The director of the weeklong show, Cuca Solana, leapt from her seat and ran backstage in a frantic but failed bid to persuade the models to stop the show.
Fermin Lucas, director of the Ifema convention centre which was hosting the show, stormed out in protest.
Many fashion writers followed suit.
"This is an insult to women at a time when we are all fighting for equality and respect," Lucas said.
The outfits were the work of new designer David Delfin, 31, who went out on stage afterward and put his hands together as if to ask forgiveness.
Amidst the political backdrop of a possible U.S.
war with Iraq and
Torino's show began with the playing of the Star Spangled Banner, soon
joined by the intensifying sound effects of bombs exploding. From the
darkness appeared the first model -- an olive-skinned man dressed in a
bullet-ridden, red leather bikini and wearing a waist-length red burka.
Then, single-file, models marched out dressed in colorful sheaths. They
undressed themselves, to reveal primitive bikinis.
Next, models came out one by one, wearing beautifully-finished pastel
leather suits and dresses embellished with localized areas of circular
laser cuts. The concept was confusion - then, in realization of the
symbolism, alarming. As perhaps the third model appeared, it became
apparent, as the laser cuts in her dress looked burned around the edges,
that these were indeed symbolic of bullet holes. The Mediterranean
musical medley continued, and the denim collection appeared, also
permeated with the ragged holes. The same effect appeared in every item.
Several models sported white top hats, and one, a Playboy bunny-esque
tuxedo symbolizing Uncle Sam.
Worried US textile chiefs called on the Bush administration
to place quotas on imports of bras, dressing gowns, gloves and other Chinese textile goods after they soared to record levels in the first half. They claim China is now the largest exporter of clothing and textile goods to the US following its entry into the World Trade
Organisation late last year - and blame soaring imports for the loss of 67,000 jobs and
116 mill closings..
BELGIUM: EU Sanctions List Targets US Apparel Exports
US companies and trade associations are asking their European customers for help in getting apparel such as blue jeans and underwear removed from a list of products threatened by an additional 100 percent import duty.
Companies like Levi Strauss, Haggar Corp and Jockey International are among those being threatened with the tariffs by the European Union in retaliation for an illegal US tax break.
Police Raid Nets Fake Clothing Worth $550,000
Fake designer clothing valued at more than $550,000 has been seized and several people arrested in connection with a police raid on a storage facility in Connecticut.
Officers swooped on the West Haven warehouse and confiscated a trailer load of counterfeit clothing and brand-name tags as part of a probation probe. Police also arrested eight people in New York.
Detectives investigating the case say none of those being held are US citizens. It is believed they are from Northern Africa and the Middle East.
London's Fashion show Disappoints..
The first shows of London Fashion Week featured little that has not been seen or done before.
The London shows took the lead of the international fashion circuit this year, opening ahead of Paris, New York and Milan. But organizers were defending the event Friday against claims the opening shows were lackluster and audience levels low.
One report in The Times newspaper called the first shows of the week "dull, disappointing and downright deadly."
(Top) A model wears a bikini by Ben de Lisi during his
show at London fashion Week September 15, 2002.
Bright, jewel-encrusted dresses for evening, masculine tailoring for day and exotic Gypsy flounces for any time were among the major trends to emerge from London Fashion Week.
But the question on many a fashionista’s lips was: did anyone take notice?
The event, which wound down yesterday, received little coverage in Britain and was the target of criticism it was becoming irrelevant in the face of much bigger showings in New York and Paris.
On paper, it should have been London’s largest contribution to the fashion circuit so far, with 44 official, and as many more unofficial, shows scheduled for venues across the capital.
But organizers found themselves defending the five-day event against claims that audience levels were low and some shows were, at best, lacklustre or, at worst, unoriginal.
Fashion Features Lingerie Look
NEW YORK - Thumb through the racks of designer clothes at department stores next spring, and you might wonder if you've stumbled into Victoria's Secret.
You'll find lingerie looks, including corsets and camisoles. Lace and embroidery. Cascades of ruffles. Whisper-soft pastels. These confectionary signs of spring, festooned with ribbons and bows, tally in as one of the major trends of the 2003 Fashion Week collections previewed last week in New York.
Corsets practically blanketed the runway, holding waists in place or
simply subtly suggested via lacing on the backs of jackets or the fronts
of miniskirts. Skirts in hand crochet, soft pastels and tiers of ruffles
helped advance the season's mood of femininity.
Charming Shoppes Buys Maryland
Women's plus-size apparel chain Charming Shoppes Inc on Tuesday revealed it has agreed to buy a 392,500-square foot distribution centre in Maryland for $17.3 million that will supply its Lane Bryant stores.
The Pennsylvania-based operator of 2,311 outlets in 48 states said in a news release it has acquired the White Marsh warehouse from Time Warner Entertainment Co LP, a unit of AOL Time Warner Inc.
Charming Shoppes said the completion of the purchase is expected to occur during the current quarter of this year and the new facility is expected to begin servicing its 655 Lane Bryant stores in early 2004
Bikini bottoms seemingly inspired by the ring costume of a sumo
wrestler, and bandeau bra tops which could have stepped
from a mural of the Minoan fashion current in 2002 BC, were
among the more novel beach wear styles which made their debut
at the 2002 Lyon Mode City trade fair.
H&M Q3 Profit Rockets 53 Per Cent
Swedish fashion giant Hennes & Mauritz AB posted better-than-expected third quarter results including a 53 per cent surge in pre-tax profit to $204 million from $136m in the year-ago period.
The world's largest fashion retailer by market capitalization said quarterly sales jumped 15 per cent to $1.36bn and revealed profit margins improved strongly in its US operations to 54 per cent from 51.3 per cent in 2001.
The operator of more than 800 stores also announced it plans to open 39 new stores in the fourth quarter, with the majority of those new outlets opening in the US, Germany and Spain. It will also shut four stores in the period.
"The H&M Group has increased its turnover in all countries of operation," it said, adding August sales climbed 16 per cent compared to last year. However, it said
unseasonable weather hit Scandinavian sales towards the end of the quarter.
Guilford out of Chapter 11
Fabric manufacturer Guilford Mills Inc on Thursday said it expects to emerge from Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection
after a bankruptcy court approved its reorganization plan.
The North Carolina-based company filed for Chapter 11 six months ago and has since sold several businesses and exited selected markets as it looks to focus on certain apparel businesses and automotive and technical textiles.
The plan's major provisions include the firm's suppliers being paid in full and senior lenders acquiring a 90 per cent stake in the company with shareholders owning a 10 per cent stake.
Senior debt, which will consist primarily of a three-year revolving credit facility and a three-year term loan, will total about $145 million - down from $270m.
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