MCPETE-SEZ
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     Bras seek a better fit
They're lacy and seductive, fancy or plain, colourful, clingy, stretchy, small, large and made from almost every fabric imaginable. The problem is, many of them just don't fit right. 
Bras, a wardrobe essential for nearly every woman in the modern world, are big business. And they've come a long way since the 1960s, when the sultry, bosomy actress Jane Russell touted Playtex's revolutionary "Cross-Your-Heart" technology. 
But the majority of women are still strutting around wearing ill-fitting cups, bands that ride up, and straps and underwires that dig in, says bra maker Bali, the brand that introduced "Wonderbra," and is a unit of food and consumer goods maker Sara Lee. 
Seven in 10 women in the United States, in fact, are wearing the wrong size bra, according to Bali. 
In an effort to correct the situation and boost the bottom line at Sara Lee's Winston-Salem, North Carolina-based intimate apparel unit, Bali in August began sending a team of some 200 bra fitters across the country, armed with tape measures and gentle advice, to help women find the right size and style for them. 
"Most of them come in with issues," says fit expert Teresa Wise, of the women who have attended fittings she staffs at department stores in the South for the campaign, "Bali Fits 100,000 Women." 
"They're so appreciative to finally get into a bra that feels right," she said. "One lady was so excited that she was in the right size bra, she actually came up to me with this big hug." 
Bali has already held more than 100 of its fitting events at retailers ranging from Carson Pirie Scott in Chicago to Burdine's in Florida. Its goal -- within one year -- is to get 100,000 women into the right size bra. 
The bra maker claims that a good-fitting bra is critical to a woman's comfort. The average "B" cup woman, for instance, is carrying 5 to 7 pounds in her breasts, while the average "D" cup is toting around 15 to 23 pounds. 
BRA TECHNOLOGY SHAPES UP 
Chicago-based Sara Lee, which also makes bras under names like Playtex, Hanes Her Way and Just My Size in the United States, and Dim and Unno in Europe, is providing a lot of support for innovation to make bras more comfortable, and to add value that can improve its profit margins. 
With nearly one-third of the U.S. market, the company is the largest U.S. bra maker, competing against rivals such as Victoria's Secret and department store brands like Maidenform, Warner and Olga. 
"There's nothing more difficult, actually, than making a bra and having a bra fit," says Jennifer Armstrong, who heads marketing for Bali. Getting a new bra from concept to store shelves can often take more than two years, she says. 
The conventional bra, made with traditional cut-and-sew method using seams, has more than 20 individual pieces. That's one reason why the hottest technology is for the latest seamless bras, created out of a single, tubular piece of fabric on a circular knitting machine. 
The method, using a variety of yarns and tensions, eliminates uncomfortable seams and the need for a separate elastic band under the cups. 
Sara Lee makes bras using its seamless technology on high-tech, Italian-made Santoni machines, both here and in Europe, under names such as Bali's "Body Revolution" and Playtex's "Body Zen." 
"It's really the new generation of bra technology," says Armstrong. "It has a lot more flexibility. It kind of moulds to your body and just feels like it's part of you." 
The inspiration for a new bra can come from the least likely sources, she says. For example, Bali's new "Shoulder Spa" bra, designed for full-figured women, builds on technology found in Dr. Scholl's shoe insteps. 
"We've always known for full support women, shoulders dig in and you can actually see the marks," she says. "It really is a big problem so we were looking for a type of material that would be superior and gel just came to mind." 
The ergonomically designed bra was introduced in January, and has already become one of the top-10 selling styles in the United States, she says. 
GETTING THE RIGHT SIZE 
So just what should a woman look for in a bra? 
When conducting a fitting, Bali's fitter Wise says she looks for a number of telltale signs: Breast tissue should not spill out of the cups at the top or on the sides. The underwire should not dig in. And, the middle cushion, the area between the two cups, should tack neatly against the breast bone, not pull away. 
For full support, the breasts should be aligned in the middle between your elbow and your shoulder, Wise says. 
Gaining weight during and after pregnancy, dieting or taking on a new exercise regime often means it's time to size up or down, she adds. 
One of the biggest mistakes women make is using a bra's straps to provide support. Straps, Wise says, are simply there to help shape the cup of the bra. It is the back and side band that is actually designed for support. 
Wise advises women to create a wardrobe of bras. 
"Just like you don't wear the same shoes for every outfit, you want different bras to do different things." A seamless bra, for instance, is great under T-shirts or tight fitting fabrics, while cut-and-sew bras can provide a dressier look. 
Whatever the look, the need for help in sizing seems apparent. Two weeks ago, a Bali's bra fitting at Macy's Herald Square store in midtown Manhattan brought in nearly 300 women, says Elina Kazan, who heads publicity for the retailer. 
"It was a successful event," she said. "It's a re-education for women."